TPS
Diagnostics

Good news first: this whole job is done with the engine off. Key on, throttle worked by hand. Start with the throttle fully closed and look at the reading. The page compares it against your bike's closed-throttle window, the numbers from your service manual, the ones you typed in or let the tool learn from your sensor.

The status word runs the job. HOME means the sensor is seated at its stop, the known starting point. UNDER means you have left home but the reading is still below the window. IN SPEC means you are in the window. OVER means you turned past it. There is no guessing anywhere in this; the word tells you which way to move.

Loosen the two sensor screws just enough that the sensor body will rotate in its slots. Throttle fully closed. Now turn the sensor slowly, a hair at a time, and watch the reading walk. If it says UNDER, keep going the way you are going. Aim for the middle of the window, not the edge; the middle forgives the shift that comes next.

Because there is always a shift. Snug the screws back down and re-check before you believe anything. Tightening walks the reading, sometimes out of the window you just put it in. If it walked, loosen, nudge, snug, and check again. That little loop is not failure; it is the job.

Now the proof the sensor itself is healthy. Roll the throttle open slowly, stop to stop, and watch the reading climb. It should rise smoothly the whole way, no jumps, no flicker, no dead spot where the number freezes while your hand keeps moving. At wide open it should land inside the wide-open window. A jump or a dropout is a worn spot on the sensor's track, and no adjustment fixes a worn track; that sensor gets replaced.

Closed throttle mid-window after the screws are tight, a smooth climb, wide open in its window. That is a calibrated TPS, and the flat spots and lazy midrange that a mis-set sensor causes are gone with it.

Start at the top. The big number is your sensor's resistance right now, in ohms, and beside it the tool shows the two windows it is judging against: your closed throttle window and your wide open window. Under the reading sits the state, and the state is the whole conversation. Home means the sensor is seated at its mechanical stop, the drop-in position where every adjustment begins. Under means you have left home but the reading has not reached the window yet. In spec means the reading is inside your window. Over means you have rotated past it. Each state comes with its instruction written right there, so you are never guessing what a state wants from your hands.

Before anything else, the tool needs your bike's specs, and that is the Your Bike section. Type in your bike's name. Then choose how to set the spec. From the manual: enter the closed throttle window, minimum and maximum, and the wide open window, minimum and maximum. Those are the resistances your service manual calls for between the sensor's signal and ground terminals, throttle shut and throttle pinned. Or use Learn mode and let the tool build the windows from your own sensor's measured values instead. Either way, your specs save on this device, so your bike's numbers are waiting next time.

Now the two controls, and these are your hands. Throttle position sweeps the butterfly from closed to wide open. Slide it slowly and watch the reading climb. It should rise smooth and steady, no jumps, no dropouts, because a scratchy, jumpy track is a worn sensor talking. At one hundred percent, the tool stops judging the closed window and checks the wide open window instead. The second control, sensor adjustment, is the physical job itself: rotating the sensor in its slots. Turning it shifts the whole resistance curve up or down, and this slider stands in for your fingers on the sensor body.

The adjustment, in order. One, set your spec, the step you did. Two, find home: sensor dropped in, screws just snug, reading at its stop. Three, throttle fully closed, rotate the sensor slowly. Under means keep going. The moment the state reads in spec, stop, and aim for the middle of the band, not the edge. Four, snug the screws and check again, because tightening shifts the reading, and if it walked, nudge it back. Five, verify wide open: sweep the throttle to one hundred and confirm that reading lands in its own window. If closed is right and wide open is out, the track is worn or the wrong sensor is fitted. Six, the health check: roll the throttle slowly, stop to stop, and watch for any jump, flicker, or dead spot. Any one of those means the sensor's track is worn and the sensor gets replaced, not adjusted. That is the whole page: your numbers in, four honest states, two controls, six steps. Set the spec, find home, walk it into the green, prove it at wide open.